Organic Wine and Food Matching

Alois Lageder's biodynamically farmed Alto Adige vineyards Biodynamically grown wine, according to Italy’s Alois Lageder, yields “the purest possible expression of terroir .” And speaking like a true terroirist , he contends that the future of wine “can’t be seen to lie in still more technology,” but must “rely on a true sensibility to the laws of nature.” For many years, among most Italian winemakers, Lageder was known for the restrained, finely chiseled qualities of his wines. For instance, whereas most of Italy’s Pinot Grigios are very soft, easy, fruity wines, Lageder’s are always lean, linear, minerally and unrepentantly sharp. Like comparing a well matured, female, long distance Alpine bicyclist with a softer skinned teenage girl with baby fat and allergy to work and manners. Both are perfectly fine, of course; just one more serious than the other. Clemens and Alois Lageder It is this combination of constraint and pent-up terroir that one definitely tastes in the 2...

The lavender fields at  Ceàgo Vinegarden Despite what that fellow Miles might have said about it, there is still a very good reason why you should drink ultra-premium California Merlot, which is the same reason why some of the state’s most prestigious winemakers – like Bruce Neyers and Selene’s Mia Klein – still specialize in the grape: It makes wine that can enthrall the senses the way Keira Knightley eats up a camera. Resistance is futile. Here’s another reason: The 2006 Ceàgo Camp Masut Merlot (about $25) is biodynamically grown, on top of being totally delicious; its classic red berry/black cherry Merlot aromas enhanced by pretty, floral, violet-like perfumes; and on the palate, round fleshy, finely polished textures punctuated by the luscious berry flavors and buoyed by soft yet sturdy tannins.  Textbook. Ceàgo, as it was, was founded by Jim Fetzer, former president of the same Fetzer Vineyards that was among the pioneers of organic grape growing in California...