Organic Wine and Food Matching

Domaine Marcel Deiss Burlenberg Pinot noir France’s Alsace region is not known for its Pinot Noir. Invariably they are lightweights; light in body, light in fragrance, light in flavor. But if there ever was a case for the veracity of biodynamic viticulture, it might be the 2001 Marcel Deiss Burlenberg (about $40); farmed by the current heir to the domaine, the incorrigible but inventive Jean-Michel Deiss, who found practical truths in much of the biological and spiritual teachings of philosopher/farmer Rudolph Steiner . Jean-Michel turned to biodynamics in 1997, after farming organically for some twenty years prior, shortly after becoming convinced that the one unique aspect of Alsatian wines among all other French wines – the bottling of wines by the grape variety rather than regional appellation – was utterly wrong. To Monsieur Deiss, the ultimate quality of a wine is the strength of its sense of place, or terroir , instead of varietal character.  Jean-Michel (...

Because something is happening here, and you don’t know what it is...  The 2008 Ca’ del Solo Muscat (Monterey County; about $18) is not just another pretty girl; as lightly sweet, delectable and fragrant a white wine as it is, blooming with notes of tropical flowers (jasmine and frangipani), lychee and white peppery spices (or as the back label describes it, with Nabokovan alliteration, “a musky, melodious, melon-like meditation on minerality”).  It also ranks as another battle cry against convention launched by a winemaker who has done more than make a career out of idiosyncrisity – he has made a career out of turning idiosyncrisities into norms.  Ca’ del Solo, for those of you who’ve been around the block, used to be a brand, formulated by Bonny Doon winemaker (and “President for Life”) Randall Grahm, signifying Italian inspired grapes, wine styles, and yes, leetle girl labels.  Today, Ca’ del Solo labels bear “crystalline” micro-snapshots of each wine, capture...

  The French have been making sparkling wine in California for so long, you almost overlook the extraordinary quality of their wines: the closest thing to fine, complex champagne grown and produced outside Champagne, France in the world.  Each of the major firms have made dramatic impacts on the industry: beginning in the mid-1970s, Domaine Chandon with its focus on the three classic grapes of Champagne (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) grown in the coolest section (Carneros) in Napa Valley; Mumm Napa with its brilliant blending in adjustment to California’s sunnier climes, Roederer Estate for its bold exploration of Mendocino’s Anderson Valley, and now, Domaine Carneros by Taittinger for its French-like sense of long-term sustainablility, moving towards 100% organic grape growing soon after establishing its 300 acres in Carneros in 1987.  Consider this: in the early 1990s it wasn’t quite hip to be green; especially among neighbors who, although they may farm...