Casa Barranca ‘Arts & Crafts’ Red and beef stroganoff


There is a common misconception about “organic” wines that makes little sense to just about anyone, even when clearly explained.

To wit: In the U.S. there is such a thing as organic wine, which differs from wines made from organic grapes in that they are not only grown organically, but are vinified without the use of any added sulfites. The USDA, in all its wisdom, makes this distinction despite the fact that there are very few wines made with at least som added sulfites, simply because sulfites are the best, most reliable way of stabilizing bottled wine. 



Sulfites, in fact, occur naturally during the fermentation process of all wines, and so even a legally definied organic wine, finished with no added sulfites, will contain at least a small proportion (albeit, usually between 1 and 8 parts per million) of naturally occurring sulfites. If you wish to drink something 100% sulfite free, I recommend either chilled saké (although made from rice, an excellent “wine”), or no wine at all (sorry).

Among the cognoscente (what we now call wine geeks) there is also a prevailing misconception that all unsulphured organic wines are funky, unreliable, inherently flawed, and therefore not worth anyone’s time. This, too, is nonsense. Although there are a number or organic wineries that consistently produce mediocre wines, there are also a number of vignerons that produce consistently spectacular wines, even without the stabilizing addition of sulfites. The older (pre-2000s) bottlings of Domaine Tempier in France’s Bandol immediately comes to mind; as do Allemand in the Rhône’s Beaujolais, Denogent in Pouilly-Fuissé, and Thevenet, Lapierre or Breton in Morgon (cru de Beaujolais).

In the U.S. unsulphured wines have had more downs than ups, but occasionally we come across a terrific one, like the 2006 Casa Barranca Arts & Crafts Red (about $20): An absolutely luscious, velvety smooth and fleshy blend of Merlot (75%) and Cabernet Sauvignon, and proof-positive that zero-sulfite wine can be just as fresh, clean and intense as any wine. Even if you’ve never heard of Casa Barranca, there’s a first time for every wonderful thing: It is a tiny (and yes, artsy-crafty) winery in Santa Barbara’s Ojai Valley, they do sell online.



Juicy, black cherry/berryish fruit, rather than drying tannin or oak, are the driving sensations in the Casa Barranca; and for this, you do not need a red meat with high fat content. In fact, it’s precisely these types of Merlot/Cabernet (rather than thick, heavy ones) that do better with filets and tenderloins of beef; or else thin slices of beef slow cooked stroganoff style. 

I like this particular recipe for Beef Stroganoff by Closet Cooking because it doesn’t forget the paprika, doesn’t overdo the tomato sauce, isn’t afraid of sour cream, and utilizes fresh dill, which (along with the sour cream) merges beautifully with the soft textures and sweet, savory undertones of Merlot based reds.


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