Kawarau Pinot Noir & decadent filets of beef

Central Otago, New Zealand.


Incredible Pinot Noir from a land that time – and still, most wine lovers – forgot?  That’s Central Otago, located in the southern reaches of New Zealand’s South Island; a setting so spectacular, it rivals only Hawai`i in its usage when cinematographers need scenes of other worldly, primordial beauty (re The Chronicles of Narnia or The Lord of the Rings).

As a grape growing region, Central Otago is like France’s Burgundy (the home of the Pinot noir grape) upside-down: Intersecting the 45th South Parallel (Burgundy is just north of the 45th North Parallel) and marked by an icy Alpine climate, and optimal, well drained, sloping terrain (schistous sandy, silty loams). All adding up to Pinot Noirs of effortless grace, silky textures, snappy acidity, and deep flavors defined by billowing perfumes of varietal spice and flowers.



Kawarau Estate owners Charles and Wendy Finny


So if Central Otago Pinot Noirs are so great, why aren’t they famous? For one, ultra-premium grape growing is still relatively new in this part of the world (Central Otago’s “pioneers” didn’t start planting until the late 1980s). Secondly, significant numbers of world class Pinot Noirs have emerged from this region only within the past five, six years – just when the rest of the world has been experiencing a serious glut of great wine. And third, they aren’t exactly cheap (highest quality Central Otago Pinot Noirs start at $35 retail).

But if you do have a contrarian streak and truly love the taste of the purest possible Pinot Noir, the certified organically grown 2006 Kawarau Estate Pinot Noir (about $40) is for you: an expansive nose of sweet, crushed cherries and plums; the subtle smoke of fine French white oak; and on the palate, a perfectly orotund, dense, beefy, finely textured body filled out by thick tannin and savory, almost sticky rich, crushed berry fruit.  



Connoisseurs would be interested to know that the Kawarau Pinot Noir is open top fermented with natural yeast, and that much of the estate’s viticulture is biodynamically inspired. Me, I like the fact that a sinewy yet velvety textured Pinot like this is the perfect wine for the most elegant (i.e. lean yet pillowy) cuts of beef: filets or tenderloins; simply sautéed and deglazed with red wine and butter.  

Or if feeling ambitious, you can go with this recipe for filet mignon in mushroom Pinot Noir demi-glace, spoon over a dab of béarnaise, or treat yourself to a little foie gras on the side. It’s all good. Times are tough, but it doesn’t mean we must to eat like spartans every night in our own home.


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