Domaine Faiveley Mercurey and Rihana’s harvest beef stew


Today’s highlighted producer – Burgundy’s venerable Domaine Faiveley, founded in 1825 – is not a certified organic or biodynamic grower; but rather, a follower of sustainable la lutte raisonnée (“the reasoned struggle”). As with sustainable growers in the U.S., followers of la lutte raisonée may not be bound by systematic checks, but many of them farm just as organically as certified growers, each maintaining this status for their own purposes.

In the case of Domaine Faively, according to director (and seventh generation vigneron), Erwan Faiveley, it is because “when you are born in such a family you realize that you are here for a short period of time, and you realize that you don’t own your own vineyard… actually it is the vineyard that owns you.”  

Domaine Faively is also highly unusual in France’s Burgundy region in that they own and farm 80% of their own vineyards (the vast majority of Burgundian producers work primarily, if not exclusively, with contracts with independent growers), and so farming chemical-free, while utilizing completely organic fertilizers, is part and parcel of the family’s long held sense of stewardship over their vines. 


The Mercurey appellation.


The appellation known as Mercurey, located in the Côte Chalonnaise just south of the more famous Burgundian region of Côte d’Or, has long been known as the source of Burgundy’s “value” wines, produced from Pinot noir (for reds) and Chardonnay (whites). In the hands of conscientious, meticulous winemakers like Faiveley, Mercureys can be downright steals.  

The 2006 Domaine Faiveley Mercurey (about $30) is, in fact, a thing of beauty. If, like me, you love a delicate, fragrant style of Pinot Noir, this wine is for you:  leading with a gorgeously pure, sweet raspberry-like Pinot perfume with rosy floral notes and splashes of peppermint spice; and then slipping into the palate like a bride in satin, who then proceeds to kick you upside the chin with a mid-palate of firming tannins and mild yet freshening acidity, before finishing with soft, sweet, silky sensations. Whether you are a bourgeoning oenophile or a longtime connoisseur, this is a true French Burgundy anyone would appreciate, and want for more.



It is also precisely this style of Burgundy – straightforward, silky yet satisfying – that makes me think of straightforward, satisfying, autumnal meals, such as our own family’s style of harvest beef stew, composed by Rihana Caparoso:

2 lbs. chuck roast or short ribs of beef, cut into ½ inch cubes
¼-½ lb. beef heart (optional), cut in ½ inches
1 carrot, minced
1 stalk celery, minced
1 onion, minced
3-4 cloves garlic, minced
2 slices bacon, minced
2-3 tsp. olive oil
½ cup red wine
1 pint diced tomatoes (or 14.5 oz. can)
1 pint beef stock
1 bay leaf
½ tsp. each thyme, basil and oregano
Fresh ground pepper (to taste)
1 tsp. salt (or to taste)

In large stewing pot, fry carrots, celery, onion and bacon in olive oil until brown and crusty, stirring often. Add meats and garlic, and fry until crusty. Add wine and reduce all the way down.  Add tomatoes, beef stock, herbs and pepper. Cover pot, and simmer 3-4 hours.  Remove lid, cook liquid down and salt to taste. Serve with boiled potatoes or steamed white rice.


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